You don’t have to surf to get it.

Here’s the scene. Arguably the greatest surfer of all time, an 11-time world champion, in the ocean on a big day in Bali. He paddles for and catches a wave the size of a Waffle House (that’s for you, Southern folks), and a local guy drops in on him…meaning he cuts the champ off, which could be really dangerous in that situation.

And what does the greatest surfer of all time do?

He doesn’t yell at him, or give him the finger, or shoot his board at him.

He motions for the local to stay on the wave, and pulls way back to let the other guy have a chance. And they ride this powerful wall of water side by side, letting the lip pitch over and envelop them until they’re tucked together into surfing’s most sacred space.

The reaction from the local as he pulls out is one of stunned disbelief, gratitude, and pure joy…all because somebody, an 11-time-world-champion-somebody, responded to a faux pas with grace.

An old Notre Dame football coach is credited with saying life is 10% what happens to you, and 90% how you respond.

I guess you don’t have to surf to get it.